Four GB women make history with Spantik summit without porters

Four women from Gilgit-Baltistan reached the summit of the 7,027-metre Spantik Peak and safely returned to Skardu, according to the Alpine Club of Pakistan.

The achievement is being seen as an encouraging moment for women in Pakistani mountaineering. The climbers completed the demanding ascent without the assistance of high-altitude porters.

The successful climbers were Shama Baqir and Samana Rahim from Shimshal Valley, Zooni Aslam from Gulmit Valley in Gojal, Upper Hunza, and Zaiba Batool Shigri from Shigar district.

Their success came during a difficult period on the mountain, as changing weather conditions later created serious problems for rescue and recovery teams.

Women climbers reach the summit

Bismah Hassan from Lahore was also part of the expedition but could not complete the final section. She turned back around 250 metres below the summit after facing a health problem.

Alpine Club of Pakistan General Secretary Ayaz Shigri said the women reached the summit either a day before or on the same day that climber Dr Asma Mushtaq died while descending from the mountain.

Weather conditions had remained favourable around the peak before Friday. However, the situation later changed, making movement on the mountain much more difficult.

The successful return of the women therefore came against a backdrop of increasing concerns over safety on Spantik. Their achievement also highlighted the physical and mental demands involved in climbing one of Pakistan’s major peaks.

For the local mountaineering community, the expedition has provided a positive story at a time when difficult weather has complicated several operations in the region.

Romanian climber adds another inspiring story

The expedition also included Romanian climber Alexandra Visan, who successfully climbed Spantik despite battling cancer.

Visan safely descended from the mountain after completing the climb. Her expedition was organised by Broad Boy Adventures, owned by Pakistani mountaineer Shehroze Kashif.

Kashif said Visan was accompanied by local high-altitude porter Ali Ameen of Shigar during her expedition.

He described her climb as a powerful example of determination and perseverance. Her journey showed how climbers can continue pushing forward even when they face serious personal and physical challenges.

Visan’s achievement added an international dimension to an expedition already marked by the success of the Pakistani women climbers.

Young Punjab climber also reaches summit

Punjab climber Ayyan Adeel also successfully summited Spantik during the expedition.

According to Kashif, Ayyan became the youngest climber to reach the peak without high-altitude porter support. He carried his own equipment with assistance from fellow expedition members Awais Choudary and Talha Khalid.

The climb demonstrated the growing participation of younger mountaineers in challenging high-altitude expeditions in Pakistan.

It also showed that climbers from different parts of the country and abroad can come together for demanding mountaineering missions in the northern mountains.

Also Read:Major train service halted for two days

Bad weather delays recovery of climber

While the successful summits brought fresh encouragement, dangerous weather continued to create serious difficulties on Spantik.

Dr Asma Mushtaq died at an altitude of around 6,250 metres while descending from the Spantik summit. Her body remained at Camp 3 as rescue teams waited for safer weather conditions.

Ayaz Shigri said a six-member team of high-altitude porters reached Camp 2 and attempted to move towards Camp 3.

However, heavy rain and snowfall forced the team to abandon the attempt and return to Camp 2.

Weather conditions were expected to improve, allowing rescuers to make another attempt to bring Mushtaq’s body down to base camp.

After that, Pakistan Army helicopters are expected to transport the body from the mountain area to Skardu.

The recovery operation remains difficult because of the altitude, snowfall and rapidly changing weather conditions.

Broad Peak operation also affected

Bad weather has also affected recovery efforts at Broad Peak, another major mountain in the region.

The body of American climber Sarah Mallory Geis remains at the base camp of the 8,047-metre mountain and is awaiting airlift.

The situation at both mountains shows how quickly weather can change the conditions for climbers and rescue teams.

Helicopter operations can also become difficult or impossible when visibility, snowfall and other conditions deteriorate.